Trincomalee

Trincomalee in July 2018, where a casual dinner order turned into a dosa longer than the table and the kitchen watched us work out how to eat it.

Trincomalee, July 2018. East-coast beach town, blue water, and the evening we learned that menus in Trinco do not use the word "large" lightly.

Inga smiling behind a paper dosa nearly a metre long served on two trays pushed together, an octopus mural on the wall behind
One dosa, two trays. The octopus on the wall had the right idea about extra arms.

It arrived crisp, absurd and delicious, and yes, it got finished. The east coast rewards the detour: from here it is an easy hop to the sands at Pasikuda or the reef at Pigeon Island.

Photos from an earlier Trinco, June 2014

The dosa was not our first visit. Four years earlier, in June 2014, we climbed Swami Rock, met the crows down by the boats and ate a lot of fruit.

A towering golden statue of Shiva with a trident, seen from below against a bright sky at Koneswaram temple
The golden Shiva at Koneswaram temple, best photographed with a cricked neck.
View from Swami Rock over a wide blue bay, Trincomalee town and its beach curving along the far shore with fishing boats on the water
Trinco from Swami Rock: the whole town, the whole bay, one lookout.
A line of fishermen spaced along a sandy beach hauling a long seine net in from the sea
A beach seine coming in: a whole line of men, one very long net, centuries of practice.
Inga in a yellow sun hat walking towards fishing boats at the water's edge, dozens of black crows perched on the painted hulls
The boats belong to the fishermen. The boats also belong to the crows.
Inga at a wooden table lifting a forkful of papaya from a plate of banana, watermelon, papaya and orange
East-coast breakfast: papaya first, questions later.