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Maalu Maalu

Maalu Maalu at Pasikuda in June 2014: sunrise over the infinity pool, a catamaran out to the reef, a wave from the fishing crews and a banana-stall town run.

June 2014, Pasikuda bay on Sri Lanka's east coast. Maalu Maalu is a resort of timber chalets built like fishermen's huts, arranged around one long boardwalk that runs from the rooms, past the pool, straight into the sea. For a few days our entire navigation system was that boardwalk.

The resort

Sunrise over the sea reflected in a dark infinity pool, two thatched cabanas silhouetted on either side
Sunrise arriving twice: once in the sky, once in the infinity pool.
Inga smiling beside the long wooden boardwalk that runs across pale sand between palm trees to the sea
The boardwalk: rooms behind, sea ahead, no further decisions required.
Inga in a black sun hat and polka-dot swimsuit standing on the terrace of timber chalet number 15
Chalet 15, reporting for pool duty.

The bay

Pasikuda's party trick is water so shallow and calm you can wade out for ages, which makes dawn swims dangerously easy to say yes to.

Inga in a white sun hat and sheer beach dress standing barefoot on the wide sand of Pasikuda beach
Pasikuda sand: the kind that ends up in your luggage for months, happily.
Inga standing waist-deep in a calm sea at sunrise in a polka-dot swimsuit, the low sun lighting the water
A June sunrise swim in a bay that barely bothers with waves.

Out on the catamaran

A white sailing catamaran anchored on turquoise water off the palm-lined Pasikuda shore
Our ride out over the bay.
Inga and Dileep sitting together on the rail of a catamaran with the open sea behind them
Rail seats, best seats.
Four fishermen standing on a wooden outrigger canoe on turquoise water, coconut palms lining the beach behind
The local commute: four men, one outrigger, zero life jackets, total confidence.
Inga and Dileep posing on the beach with a large group of local fishermen in sarongs, a catamaran mast behind
The full crew photo. We are the two who did none of the fishing.

Under the bay

A staghorn coral head with pale blue tips growing on the reef in green-blue water
Staghorn coral with blue-dipped tips, like it was finished by hand.
Small striped sergeant major fish swimming through a dense field of staghorn and plate coral
Sergeant majors on manoeuvres through the coral.

Into town

Step out of the resort bubble and the real east coast is right there: market scales, sacks of onions, and bananas sold by the entire bunch.

A local vegetable market with wooden tables of okra and aubergines, hanging balance scales and a stallholder in a pink sari
Market maths done on hanging balance scales, as it should be.
Dozens of whole banana bunches hanging from the frame of a roadside stall, coconut palms behind
A roadside stall measuring bananas in full trees.

Pair Pasikuda with the reef at Pigeon Island up the coast, and a dosa of legend in Trincomalee.