An hour or two east of Ulaanbaatar the city gives way to granite. In May 2024 we spent a day in Gorkhi-Terelj National Park, where enormous rock formations rise straight out of the meadows and ger camps pitch themselves at their feet.
From Turtle Rock a track leads up the valley to the Aryabal meditation temple, and the approach is an attraction in itself: a long wooden footbridge slung across a ravine, with a painted gate waiting at the far end.
Terelj was our last taste of the Mongolian outdoors before flying on, and it earned its spot. If Kharkhorin is the history and the ger camp is the life, this is the landscape at full volume.