London, United Kingdom: Twenty years of it, from the Eye to the Olympics
Twenty years of London in one place: student years with a bad camera, volleyball gold and basketball bronze at the 2012 Olympics, and the summer of 2015.
Twenty years of London, gathered up in one place. It starts with students and a camera doing its best, runs through an Olympic summer, and ends with the year we photographed absolutely everything.
2005 to 2007: the student years
This is the bottom of the London box. Three years, a handful of frames, and cameras that were doing their best. We were students then, London was the big city up the road rather than a place we knew, and the pictures we bothered to take were the ones that mattered: a birthday, a festival, and the day the studying finally stopped.
A birthday on the Eye
September 2005, Inga's birthday ride on the London Eye. Cheek to cheek at the top of the loop.
Chinese New Year at Trafalgar Square
Chinese New Year 2006 at Trafalgar Square, where an army display and the red lanterns shared the same sky. The helmets weren't optional.
Graduation day in Greenwich
The one fixed date in this whole page: 20 July 2007, graduation day at the Old Royal Naval College in Greenwich, with Dileep's parents and brother over for the occasion. The student years that led up to this day are over on Greenwich.
The whole year lined up under the colonnades of the Old Royal Naval College, academic robes bringing the colour.The handshake that made it official. Years of study, one scroll.The official family portrait: one graduate, two proud parents, one brother already planning where to eat.And the unofficial one. Inga attended every all-nighter by phone; the scroll is at least a third hers.
After the scroll came the gap: a few quiet years, then London pulled us back properly. The next chapter runs from a Hampton Court autumn to a front row seat at Fashion Weekend.
2011 to 2014: the Olympic summer
These are the years London stopped being a day out and started being a habit. An autumn weekend of palaces in 2011, then the summer the Olympics landed on our doorstep, a West End night in the middle of winter, and a February spent watching a catwalk from about four feet away. It's four visits and four completely different cities.
Palaces in the autumn
October gave us cold light, short days and almost nobody else in the gardens. We spent one of them at the gates of Buckingham Palace and the rest of the weekend out at Hampton Court.
October 2011, Buckingham Palace with the flag up and the forecourt crowd in session.October 2011: the baroque front of Hampton Court, stitched from a whole pocketful of frames.Borrowing a fountain for a portrait in the Great Fountain Garden. The gold gates on the far side approve.Closing time light over the gravel walk, yews standing to attention.One of the great yew cones, with Inga for scale. The yews have been winning this size contest since the 1700s.
We liked it enough to come back in August 2015 and do the whole palace properly, wine fountain and all.
Our London 2012 Olympics
In August 2012 the Olympics came to our doorstep and we threw ourselves at it: the Olympic Park early in the Games, a trampoline final under the dome at North Greenwich, then a finals weekend of volleyball and basketball.
4 August 2012, flag shirt on, stadium and the Orbit behind. Super Saturday, as it turned out.Inga in the park with the stadium over her shoulder. The camera queue for this exact shot was Olympic in itself.
Trampoline under the dome
The same day we crossed the river to North Greenwich, where the O2 had been rebranded the North Greenwich Arena and painted Olympic pink inside. Trampoline was on, and it turns out that if you sit high enough you can watch an entire routine without the gymnast ever leaving your frame.
Outside the dome on 4 August 2012, camera already out. For two weeks the O2 answered to North Greenwich Arena.Team GB tops, two cameras between us, and a ceiling full of pink balls. The whole building was dressed for the occasion.The concourse gave everyone the same soft pink lighting. We weren't going to argue with it.The field of play from up in the gods: two trampolines, one very pink carpet, and a press bench already at full stretch.The walk out, a dozen leotards and a dozen flags in single file. Nobody looked up.Somewhere near the top of a bounce. They get about eight metres above the bed, which is roughly two floors of a house.The salute at the end of a routine, with the coach doing the quiet applause of a man who already knows the score.Dileep and the long lens, doing the maths on how far away the trampoline really was.On the way out we ran into Savannah Vinsant, the USA trampolinist, who stopped for a photo like it was nothing. Best souvenir of the day.11 August, the women's volleyball final. Brazil's huddle before the storm.Match point: Brazil beat the USA for gold and the whole bench piled on.Japan collecting bronze, flowers up. The medals didn't stop smiling all ceremony.Gold for Brazil, phones already out for the podium selfies. Some things are universal.Flags up, anthem on, and an arena that had been screaming all evening went completely quiet.12 August, the last day of the Games, following the signs to the basketball.The scorers' bench mid-shift. Everything at these Games came in that same pink, including the paperwork.Argentina against Russia for the men's bronze, our farewell fixture of London 2012.
Singin' in the Rain
February 2013 at Cambridge Circus: Singin' in the Rain, with a canopy of umbrellas over the Palace Theatre doing the set design outside.
London Fashion Weekend
A year later, almost to the week, we took our seats at London Fashion Weekend at Somerset House, the weekend where the catwalk opens to the rest of us. One camera for the runway, one eye on the front row.
Checked in at Somerset House, lanyard on, The Catwalk signposted behind. February 2014.Dileep, accredited and armed with the event tote. The signs point to the Gold & Silver Tote Bag Collection; we point to the catwalk.En route, a costume change courtesy of the most photographed red boxes in Britain.First out: blue and green print at walking pace. Front row already multitasking.Blush silk and a gold clutch, with the photographers' gantry working overtime behind the wall.Embellished knit over stripes. The security detail stays completely unmoved by fashion.A white pussy-bow blouse doing the talking, glitter trousers doing the walking.Silver on white, and a front row of raised phones. 2014, when everyone had just discovered filming everything.Lace, stripes and a cobalt clutch: three patterns, zero hesitation.Dark florals for spring. Groundbreaking or not, it earned the phones-up treatment.Roses, mint trousers and indoor sunglasses: catwalk rules are different rules.Peach florals over broderie anglaise, walking straight into a wall of lenses.Sunshine yellow lace. The wall behind lists the wifi network LFW2014, password February14: security was more relaxed back then.Sportswear tee, cocktail jewels. The necklace got its own close-up.Turquoise leather over orange, joggers with heels. A 2014 forecast that mostly came true.The same look up close, all zips and aviators.Closing note: coral, belted, unbothered. We left convinced we understood fashion. It wore off by the Tube.
Fashion Weekend closes this chapter, and the year that followed turned into the busiest London year we've ever had.
2015: the summer of everything
2015 was our first big London year, and the camera barely got a day off. Between May and September we worked through the palaces, the gardens, the West End and one very wet carnival, and we didn't turn down a single invitation. Here's the whole summer, by chapter.
The Natural History Museum
The run started on 4 May at the Natural History Museum. We were in there from mid-morning until late afternoon and still didn't see half of it. It's free, it's enormous, and it's essentially a cathedral with dinosaurs parked in the nave.
You walk in, look up, and the building starts showing off before a single exhibit gets a word in.Outside: one small human, a great deal of terracotta.A Stegosaurus with its plates up, parked in front of a red planet. Nobody explains the pairing and nobody asks.Inga for scale under a marine reptile that used to have the whole sea to itself.A polished ammonite about the size of a car wheel. It's impossible not to put a hand on it, so we did.The gem case, where the labels kept saying Sri Lanka: yellow sapphires from 1874 and 1878, and a padparadscha of 57.26 carats. Dileep felt quietly represented.Our favourite label in the building: a mineral dug up in Serbia turned out to share its formula with the kryptonite invented for Superman Returns. The curators clearly enjoyed writing that one.
The Tower and Tower Bridge
Tower Bridge in July sunshine, flags up, doing its best postcard impression.On sentry at the Tower of London. We watched for a blink. Nothing. The geraniums moved more than he did.Windblown outside the Tower of London. A thousand years of history behind us, sunblock on.
Lucha Libre at York Hall
On 11 July we went east to Bethnal Green for masked Mexican wrestling in a Victorian boxing hall. It's the least likely double act in London and it works perfectly.
The banner made the pitch for us: the greatest spectacle of Lucha Libre, York Hall, 9 to 11 July 2015.Three luchadoras sizing each other up under the red lights, with the tequila sponsor watching from the balcony.The count, delivered with total conviction by a referee in the full striped shirt.Physics briefly suspended. The whole hall made the same noise.Dileep, one drink in, flanked by opponents he sensibly didn't challenge.Inga and a wrestler landing on the same pose. Nobody was going to argue with either of them.
Tea tasting at Twinings
On 22 July we squeezed into the shop at 216 Strand for a tasting. It's about the width of a corridor and tea has been going out of that doorway since 1706.
The doorway at 216 Strand: a golden lion on top, two seated figures either side and Est. 1706 on the glass.The tasting bar at the back, glass pots brewing along the counter, a wall of caddies keeping score.The World of Teas wall. We went in for one thing and didn't leave with one thing.Back out onto the Strand, suitably supplied.Straight across the road, the Royal Courts of Justice doing a very convincing cathedral impression.A few steps along, the dragon that marks the edge of the City of London. Wings out, thoroughly unimpressed by us.
Insects for lunch at Archipelago
The same afternoon we sat down at Archipelago and ordered things neither of us had eaten before. It's the kind of menu you want to keep, so we photographed it.
The menu in full: chermoula crickets, smoked python carpaccio, a love-bug salad billed as mixed greens with added wild life, and chocolate covered locusts to finish.The dining room sits somewhere between a bazaar and a Victorian collector's attic.Lunch lands: salad with extras, plus a plate of skewers for anyone losing their nerve.Close up, there's no pretending about what's in there. We ate it anyway.Dileep went first, as agreed. He also went back for a second spoonful, which we're logging as a review.
Kew Gardens
Kew Palace, the small red brick royal residence hiding inside the gardens.Trying the Georgian drawing room on for size. The blue walls got a firm yes.The dressing-up basket claimed a volunteer. His Lordship regrets nothing.A desert filed neatly under glass in the Princess of Wales Conservatory.The giant waterlilies, like a fleet of pie dishes at anchor. Everyone quietly wonders if one would take their weight.Inga and the long lens, hunting waterlilies. This blog doesn't photograph itself.Up the white spiral stair into the palm canopy, where the air is pure greenhouse.Outside the glasshouses, the planting is just as deliberate: red geraniums, purple lobelia and a small fan palm sharing one carved urn.The Palm House from the parterre: curved glass and Victorian confidence, still winning.Outside the Princess of Wales Conservatory, guarded by an aloe in a crate.The plaque by the door: opened on 28 July 1987, so we'd missed the ribbon by almost exactly 28 years.Cardoons in full purple, the thistle's much grander cousin.
The other Kew evening belonged to a film. On 22 July, after the tea and the insects, we came back with a picnic for an open air screening on the lawn.
22 July 2015: a screen on the grass, Kew Palace over to the left, and The Grand Budapest Hotel once it got dark enough to start.Blanket claimed and picnic deployed just before eight, because the good patches of lawn go early.
Hampton Court Palace
This one was a return visit. We'd walked the gardens on a cold October weekend in 2011, further up this page. In August we came back and did the inside properly.
The wine fountain in Base Court, inscribed with an invitation to make good cheer. A palace that opens with a wine fountain has its priorities straight.Court in session: costumed Tudors sweeping through the courtyard with a fiddler in tow. You just fall in behind.One of the gilded ceilings. Necks ache; worth it.Tapestries by the acre. Each one took a workshop years; we gave each about ninety seconds and still ran out of day.Dieu et mon droit, in full colour with a supporting cast of angels.The baroque side of the palace, with flower beds in full August form.Both of us on the Broad Walk. Tudor in front, baroque behind, tourists everywhere: the full Hampton Court sandwich.The sunken Pond Garden, trimmed to the millimetre since the 1500s.Paying respects to the Great Vine, planted in 1768 and still filling its own greenhouse.The golden carriage out front. When in a palace, travel accordingly.The astronomical clock in its gatehouse, still keeping its own elaborate version of the time.In the knot garden, borrowing a heraldic pole. It didn't seem to mind.Down the painted staircase, under a canvas the size of a small house and a lantern wearing its own crown.The dressing-up rail in The Georgian Story rooms. Inga went straight for the state livery, ruff included, and took her time handing it back.Above the sunken garden, where the planting is arranged with the precision of a seating plan.
One more thing the ticket bought us: membership came with a quiet green door, and behind it a members' room that nobody else seemed to have found.
The green door marked Members' Room. Membership has its moments and this was one of them.Inside: armchairs, a fireplace, bookshelves and no queue at all. Somewhere on the other side of that wall, several hundred people were shuffling through the Great Hall.
Theatre nights, summer
That same summer we worked through the West End at a rate of roughly a show a fortnight, and when we ran out of theatres we found a tent.
July 2015: The Importance of Being Earnest. We were, briefly.War Horse in August. You forget the horse is a puppet inside about four minutes.August 2015, a big-top cabaret on the South Bank. Somewhere between theatre and metalwork.Billy Elliot lighting up the Victoria Palace on an August night.September, and the Phantom's mask gets a companion portrait before curtain up.
Here's the rest of that summer's stubs, roughly in the order we collected them.
12 June, Miss Saigon. The helicopter poster, an art deco foyer, and a shopping bag that gives away how the afternoon went.27 June, Wicked at the Apollo Victoria, a couple of hours after a full day of Formula E in Battersea Park. We didn't pace ourselves in 2015.The dragon over the arch and the map of Oz on the curtain, before a single note has been played.2 July, The Woman in Black at the Fortune. The painted sign outside gives away nothing about the next two hours.4 July, the Gielgud lit blue for The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time.12 September, Phantom. That draped curtain hangs there looking like it's already keeping a secret.13 September, The Lion King with the whole savannah on stage at once. That's roughly when you give up trying to look at one thing at a time.
Notting Hill Carnival
August bank holiday, we joined the crowds and rain ponchos at Notting Hill Carnival. The weather did its worst; the costumes won anyway.
Red feathers versus grey drizzle: no contest.Every costume a year of sequins, every dancer completely unbothered by the rain.Top hat, roses, and a tail of pheasant feathers wider than the road.A giant winged thing and its very committed handlers, mid-roar on the wet tarmac.The traditional carnival photo: two of us in coats, two of them in feathers, everyone equally committed.A whole troupe arriving in formation, masks on, arms out, road entirely theirs.Up on a float with a blue winged figure for company, working a crowd that stretched both ways down the street.The flag bearer in green and gold, holding the middle of the road on her own.Red and black feathers, a soaked road and a band in white behind. The rain lost that one too.Sequins, spikes and a smile that didn't drop once all afternoon.
More from the 2015 archive
At the end of June 2015 Formula E brought its first London ePrix to Battersea Park, and through the rest of that summer and autumn the city kept handing us reasons to stay out.
June 2015: electric single-seaters whispering past the catch fencing at the first London ePrix.The fan-zone podium. We both claimed the top step and the stewards let it slide.Close inspection of the show car. No, they wouldn't let us keep it.The real podium, a few metres from the one we had been posing on.Alain Prost with the silverware, Richard Branson conducting the applause. Decent supporting cast for a park in Battersea.Champagne physics: as mandatory in Battersea as anywhere else in motorsport.The circuit ran through the park, so most of the race came framed by leaves.The fan village on the grass, sponsors' tents pitched like a small regatta.Grid boards lined up in order: 9, 11, 87, 6, 3, 56, all waiting for their cars.July 2015 at the Gielgud Theatre, with the man himself in bronze approving our ticket choice.September 2015: a steak board that required strategy, and got it.London from above: the Shard across the water and HMS Belfast holding its spot on the Thames.Covent Garden in September 2015, when a cloud of white balloons filled the market roof and everyone forgot to look at the shops.Tea at Laduree: macarons arranged by diplomacy, eaten by force.Interval economics at The Lion King. We escaped with our wallets, mostly.May 2015: a comedy night, red lights up, two chairs on an otherwise empty stage and the headliner watching us from the screen. Warm-up material only from here.
When we need a bed in London rather than a train home, it has been the Hilton London Olympia. They honoured our Hilton Honors benefits even though we had booked through Trip.com, which not every Hilton does, and the breakfast was good enough that we would have paid for it separately.